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KNITWARE Sweater and Tops/Vests Design HELP function key response file. vs1.20 December 1992 copyright (C) 1991, 1992 Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd. 7604 Morningdew Road R.R. #5 Victoria, B.C. Canada V8X 4M6 (604) 652-4097 ========================================================================= %intro% INTRODUCTION The KNITWARE Design programs have been written by a knitter for knitters. I knit both by hand, and using a BOND CLASSIC knitting frame. I was frustrated by the continual need to convert patterns for different yarns, or sizes, for changing a neckline, or lengthening a sleeve. The KNITWARE Design programs were the eventual outcome of this frustration. These programs will print a knitting pattern for you to use in knitting a customized sweater, using the data that you give it, and tables of standard body measurements and needle sizes. The program uses your measurements, your style selections, your gauge and yarn information to create a unique pattern. This pattern also gives you a permanent record of what you have knitted, and when. .cp INTRODUCTION The pattern instructions are written for either hand or machine knitters. The machine knitting instructions are very simplified, assuming you are using a basic knitting frame, without a ribber. If you have a ribber (lucky you) feel free to use it. There are no specific instructions for punchcard or electronic machines. There are many things the program doesn't do. If there is something particular you would like to see, let us know about it. The program is continually under revision, and I am happy to incorporate anyone's good ideas. Particularly important, please let us know if you find any mistakes or errors. The program has been tested exhaustively, but there are so many possible combinations that some small mistakes may have escaped. .cp INTRODUCTION KNITWARE Design Programs provide the following features: - Knit body of garment in stocking stitch by machine or hand. - Knit ribbing by machine or hand. - Children's sizes 20 - 32, Women's sizes 30 - 48, Men's sizes 32 - 52 (chest measurement). - All default finished measurements (e.g. length of body, ribbing, sleeve, depth or width of neck, etc.) can be changed. - Measurements in imperial (inches) or metric (cm) units. - Calculate amount of yarn required. *END* %intro sweaters% SWEATERS - INTRODUCTION KNITWARE Sweater Design will handle most combinations of the following style components: - Pullover or cardigan body style. - Drop (T-square), raglan, or set-in (fitted) shoulder style. - Body length: waist, regular, hip, or coat (tunic). - Round, scoop, square, boat, or V neckline. - Single band, double band, rolled edge, cowl, turtleneck, or shawl collars. - Full or 3/4 length sleeves. - Ease varies from very tight to oversized fit. *END* %intro tops% TOPS AND VESTS - INTRODUCTION KNITWARE Tops and Vests Design will handle most combinations of the following style components: - Pullover or cardigan body style. - Drop (T-square), raglan, or set-in (fitted) shoulder style. - Body length: waist, regular, hip, or coat (tunic). - Round, scoop, square, boat, or V neckline. - Single band, double band, rolled edge, cowl, turtleneck, or shawl collars. - Short or cap sleeves, or inset (sleeveless). - Ease varies from very tight to oversized fit. *END* %intro share% SHAREWARE - INTRODUCTION The version of KNITWARE Sweaters that you are running is shareware. Shareware is a distribution method, not a type of software. It means that you can try the program, to see if it is what you need. If you like it, and continue to use it, you are expected to pay for it. An order form is provided in the file KWSORDER.DOC. The KNITWARE Series also includes Tops and Vests, which is similar to Sweaters but with different sleeve styles. It allows short and cap sleeves and inset (sleeveless) styles. The Tops/Vests program is available only by mail order from MORNINGDEW CONSULTING. It is not available by shareware. *END* %design notes% DESIGN NOTES The program gives you a pattern for a plain sweater or top tailored to your size and specifications. You can easily add stripes, intarsia, lace holes, cables, etc.. Remember, if adding cables (or anything else that will change the stitch gauge), to either knit a test swatch with the cables (if a lot of it), or to adjust the ease a bit (for a small amount). If you are using two or more different yarns (e.g. body in a multi-coloured nubbly yarn, ribbing in a plain yarn) it is a good idea to make a test swatch with each yarn, and run the program twice, once with each stitch gauge. You will have to manually combine the two patterns, or decide which bits to use, but it will give you a better-looking finished garment. *END* %caution% CAUTION The patterns created by the KNITWARE programs will produce wearable, well-fitting garments in most cases. However, just as for off-the-shelf patterns, knitting with the wrong needles, or to a different gauge will give unpredictable results. With the KNITWARE programs, you have an even greater possibility of error, since you can also change any of the measurement data. For example, you could make the front neck width wider than the back neck width, or the wrist measurement larger than the upper arm. There are far too many possibilities for the program to check them all, we assume that you will use common sense. Also, if you do change any measurement data, check your measurements and the knitting instructions for reasonableness, BEFORE starting to knit. *END* %data entry% DATA ENTRY All data entry for this program follows a few simple rules. - Default (displayed) values will be used unless you type over them. - Type the value you want, then press the [Enter] key. - The backspace <--, [Insert], and [Delete] keys can be used to change data as it is being entered in a field. - You may use the UP and DOWN arrow keys to move from one field or position to another, without changing the data. - The [Esc] key is used to quit the data entry altogether, and return to the Main Menu. - Use the [F1] key for Help. A single line of instructions will be provided at the bottom left of the screen. - Use the [Page Down] key to bypass the screen without making any changes. - A "BEEP" will sound if you try to enter a character in a numeric field, or if your data is too long. .cp DATA ENTRY There are two major types of data to be entered: mandatory, and optional. Mandatory data fields are those that will be used to calculate the pattern data. Some examples are: stitch and row gauge, size, sleeve length. If the required data values are not accurate, the garment will, in all probability, not fit. Optional data is for information purposes only. It is printed on the pattern to help you remember when, or with what the garment was knitted. Some examples of optional data are: the date finished, for whom the garment is knitted, the yarn information. Some data values are entered by a pop-up menu selection: e.g. sex, size. Use the UP and DOWN arrow keys to move from one field to another. Use the [Enter] key to select a field to change. A menu of options will pop up. Use the first letter of an option or cursor keys to highlight a line, then the [Enter] key to select. .cp DATA ENTRY After the last data field on the screen has been passed, the verify message appears near the bottom of the screen: Press ENTER to Accept, any other key to Edit. You should check everything on the screen. If all is fine, press [Enter], and the program will display the next screen. However, if there IS something you want to change, press any other key, and the cursor will return to the first field on the screen. .cp DATA ENTRY The program checks all data as it is entered. If it is found to be incorrect, or questionable, the beep is sounded and a message is displayed in the lower left of the screen. The message must be acknowledged (press any key) before you can correct the entry. Most messages are self-explanatory, but if you have trouble, check Section 8 of the User Manual which contains a list of some messages and their explanations. However, not all possibilities can be checked by the program. You should verify that what you have entered on the screen is what you want, before pressing [Enter] on the Verify response. You should also check the printed pattern thoroughly (especially the Finished Measurements section) BEFORE starting to knit the garment. *END* %wa graphics% WHAT ABOUT GRAPHICS? Currently, there are no graphics in the KNITWARE programs. We are working on it, schematics both to print, and to display on the screen as the garment is designed. Registered users will be notified when the graphics versions are available. On the negative side, graphics in the program will increase the size requirements and slow down the processing of the program. Producing the graphics on the screen is very time consuming, and printing them takes even longer. *END* %design intro% DESIGN A NEW PATTERN - INTRODUCTION Before you start running the program, you need a few things from your knitting world: - An idea of the garment design that you want to knit. - The size, and approximate finished measurements required (or at least an idea as to how your model varies from the "average"). - The yarn information, from the manufacturer's ball-band, or from the spinner, if homespun. - A test swatch of the yarn knitted on the needles (or dial gauge or keyplate) and the pattern (usually stocking stitch) that is to be used for the body of the garment. The test swatch should be laundered before measuring. From this, the gauge over 4 inches (10 cm) for rows and stitches must have been calculated. AN ACCURATE TEST GAUGE IS CRUCIAL to designing and knitting a garment that will fit well. .cp DESIGN A NEW PATTERN - INTRODUCTION The program is run from the main menu. In a typical session you would design a pattern and then print it. After checking the printed measurements, you may decide to change the pattern, then print it again. * * * * * This is where it all starts. You have some wool, a test swatch, some ideas as the size and style of sweater or top you want. Here all your information is entered, and the program calculates the number of stitches, of rows, of decreases, and cast-offs to make this one-and-only just-for-you garment. .cp DESIGN A NEW PATTERN - SAVE PATTERN When all the data has been entered and verified, the program saves it. Usually, you would then print the pattern, but you may exit at this time, and print it in a later session. When the program is ready to save the data it will ask you to enter a pattern name. Try to choose a name that is meaningful and unique. Some suggestions are the name of the person the garment is knitted for, followed by a description, number or date (e.g. Peter dinosaur, Mary #7, Judith-Oct90). The name may be up to 15 characters long, and be composed of numbers, letters, spaces, and most special characters (e.g. - * # , . /). If the name already exists, a message will be displayed and you will have to choose a new name. *END* %change% CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN If you wish to change some part of a saved pattern design, then you would chose this option. For example, before knitting, you may want to change some of the finished measurements, or some of the style information. When the garment is finished, you may want to add the completion date. Initially, the program will display a screen listing the pattern names currently on the file. Select the pattern name that you want, or press [ESC] to exit without selecting one. When the pattern data has been retrieved, the program proceeds to the "Entering Design Data" screens. Your data values, as they were last entered, will be displayed. Change only those data fields that you want to change. If an entire screen is unchanged, simply press the [Page Down] key from the first field, to bypass entry in that screen. .cp CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN All data that is displayed for a CHANGE is as you last entered and stored it. This holds true for measurement data as well, as long as none of the size or style data is changed. However, when you change ANY of the size, sex, or style data, the program will recalculate default values for ALL the measurement data. If the measurement data has been recalculated from default values, the ** Default Measurements ** message will appear to the right of the chest measurement on the screen. This may occasionally be a nuisance. For example, if you change the size, if affects every measurement field, so recalculating them is important. However, changing from a round to a V neck affects only the neck shaping, and if you have previously customized sleeve length, back width, etc., these custom changes to the measurement data will have to be re-entered. .cp CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN When the Finished Measurements have been verified, the data must be saved again. You will be given the choice of saving the data under the old pattern file name, or with a new name. If you are just correcting some values, and you have no reason to save the old data, use the old name. If, however, you have made major changes to create a new pattern from an old one, or you want to decide between the two at some later date, use a new name. *END* %resave% RESAVE EXISTING PATTERN You are given the choice of saving the data under the old pattern file name, or with a new name. If you have just corrected some values, and you have no reason to save the old data, use the old name. The new data will replace the old data on the file. If, however, you have made major changes to create a new pattern from an old one (and you want to keep the old one as it is), or you want to decide between the two at some later date, then use a new name. Both the old data and the new data will be on the file. *END* %print% PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS When you have just finished designing a new pattern, or changing an old one, you should print the pattern to verify the details. You can then use it to knit the garment. The print procedure may also be used to print a pattern that has been saved on file previously. The program may ask you whether you want to print the current pattern (the one you just designed or changed) or one from file. If you need a file pattern, the "Pattern names on file" screen will be displayed, and you can choose the pattern name that you require. .cp PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS The next question is whether you wish to calculate the amount of yarn required to knit your garment. There are many ways to do this, but the program uses only one method, and you must tell it how far (number of rows by number of stitches) one ball of yarn will go. To find how far one ball will go, you can simply cast on a number of stitches (e.g. 50) and knit until the ball is finished, or you can continue knitting your test swatch until the ball is gone. Optionally, you can initially say no to calculating the amount of yarn, and start knitting your garment. When one ball is gone in knitting the back, then re-run the program to do the calculation, to check whether you have purchased enough yarn to finish the garment. .cp PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS The final question is whether your printer is ready. Check that your printer is turned on, that the paper is inserted correctly and is set to the top of form. The pattern prints on standard letter size paper (8.5 x 11 inches). If you commonly use a different size, check that the correct size is loaded, and the form length is set to 11. A pullover will usually require two or three pages, a cardigan will need three. The time taken to print will depend on the speed of your printer. *END* %util change% CHANGE DESIGNER DEFAULTS The first time that you used the program, you had to enter the Designer Defaults. However, as you use the program more, or as your needs change, you may want to change some of these default values. Changing the designer defaults is identical to setting Designer Data (see Design New Pattern) except for the values displayed on the screen. Change those values that you wish to and they will be changed on the defaults file. Upon completion, you will be returned to the Utilities menu. *END* %util delete% DELETE EXISTING PATTERN(S) As the number of patterns on your pattern file increases, accessing (loading and/or saving) the data takes longer. The program allows a maximum of 99 patterns on the file, but you will probably decide long before then that the file access is taking too long. You may also have patterns on the file that were trials, never used, or unwanted. The delete function can be used to tidy up the file. WARNING. Once deleted, the pattern data can no longer be retrieved or used again. The program does NOT make a backup of your pattern data file before the deletions are done. If you want a backup, refer to your DOS manual on how to do it. The file name is KWS_PATT.DAT for Sweaters, KWT_PATT.DAT for Tops and Vests. .cp DELETE EXISTING PATTERN(S) The Delete Pattern Data utility function allows you to select which patterns to delete from the file. You may delete any number, from none to all of them. The "Delete Old Pattern Data" screen will be displayed. Enter the number of the first pattern to delete, verify the name, then enter the next number as it is requested. Pattern numbers may be entered in any order. Press [ESC] at any time to exit without deleting any patterns, for example if you enter and verify a pattern that you really want to keep. When you have finished selecting the pattern numbers to delete, press [F2] to physically delete the patterns from the file. The computer will take a few moments to process the deletes, and will then display a message that the pattern file deletions have been completed. *END* %patt delete% DELETE EXISTING PATTERN(S) WARNING: The pattern data file is NOT backed up by the program. Once you delete the patterns, they are gone for good, unless you do a backup. See User Manual section 4.4.2. You may delete any number of patterns, from none to all of them. When the delete screen is displayed, enter the number of the first pattern to delete, verify the name, then enter the next number as it is requested. Pattern numbers may be entered in any order. Pattern numbers marked for deletion will be highlighted on the screen. Patterns are not physically deleted from the file until you press [F2]. Press [Esc] at any time before then to exit without deleting any patterns from the file. *END* %util list% LIST PATTERN NAMES This function allows you to look at the names of the patterns you have stored on the file. It simply displays the pattern names in the same format as the Change or Delete, and allows you to scroll through them using the [Page Up] and [Page Down] keys. Press [ESC] when you have finished. *END* %util convert% CONVERT PATTERN DATA FILE The pattern data file contains all the information about each of your designs. After version 1.10 it was necessary to add some more fields to the file, e.g. for collar style. The data must be in the correct format for the program to read it. Data from version 1.10 is not in the correct format, and must be converted so that the program can read it properly. This option will convert the pattern data file to the required format for the current version. The program will check that conversion is really necessary, before proceeding. *END* %designer data% DESIGNER DATA The Designer Data Screen is the first screen to be displayed for designing a new pattern, or changing an old pattern. It is the same screen used for setting or changing Designer Defaults. The default values shown on the screen will depend on what your designer defaults have been set to. Review the data on the screen, and determine which fields need changing for the current pattern. If the meaning of a field is not clear, press [F1] for help. If you do not want to make any changes, use the [Page Down] key to bypass the entire screen. .cp DESIGNER DATA If you change the COLOUR, the new colours will not be used until you finish the screen. If you have a monochromatic (no colours) machine, your colour will automatically be set to "None". Changing it to a different colour may have unpredictable results. If you are knitting either the body or ribbing by hand, the "TYPE OF NEEDLES" message will be displayed. Entering this field correctly will improve the clarity of the printed pattern. Likewise, if you are knitting either the body or ribbing by machine, the "TYPE OF MACHINE" message will be displayed. If you are changing from all hand or all machine to the other, or a combination, the screen will be displayed twice, the second time with the new "Type of needles/machine" message. .cp DESIGNER DATA You may knit both the body and the ribbing by machine, or both by hand. You may also knit the body by machine and the ribbing by hand. However, the program does not allow the reverse (body by hand, and ribbing by machine). The "RIBBING FIRST" option is displayed if you are knitting both the body and ribbing by machine. If you have a ribber, or prefer to knit the ribbing first, followed by the body, enter "First". If you like to knit the body, then rehang the stitches to do the ribbing, enter "Last". This option applies to the back, front, and sleeve ribbings only. *END* %gauge data% YARN AND GAUGE DATA The second screen is for entry of the yarn and tension gauge information. The first seven fields on this screen are optional. If entered, they are printed on the pattern. Sometimes, it is handy to have this information available. At other times, you may feel it is a waste of time to enter the yarn data, and decide instead to tape a ball-band and a few strands of yarn to the back or the bottom of the pattern. The default value for start date is the current date. If there is not enough room in the yarn data fields, abbreviate some part of it and try again. .cp YARN AND GAUGE DATA The gauge data is crucial. Check the measurements and calculations of your test swatch gauge carefully. Remember that this gauge is measured over 4 inches or 10 cm (NOT one inch). Dial gauge/keyplate/needle sizes are not used in any calculations, but they are necessary for clarity of the printed pattern instructions. The dial gauge/keyplate size messages are displayed if knitting by machine. Needle size messages are displayed if knitting by hand. The needle size should be in the needle type entered on the Designer Data. e.g. "4.25" is valid for metric, but not for American. The needle size entered will be checked against a table, and a message displayed if the value is not valid. *END* %garment type data% GARMENT TYPE DATA The garment type data screen is not displayed for Sweaters. The value is entered from a pop-up menu. It is used to set the style defaults for Tops and Vests. The defaults for a top are: drop shoulder scoop neck pullover with moderate ease and cap sleeves. The defaults for a vest are: sleeveless set-in shoulder V-neck pullover with comfortable ease. Any of these values may be changed on the next screen. The main difference between tops and vests is the way that they are worn, and the ease that they require. Tops are typically made from a light-weight yarn, and are made to be fairly close fitting, with tight or moderate ease. Vests are usually knit from a heavier yarn, and are worn over other garments, with comfortable or oversized ease. These are suggestions only, select the ease that will suit your yarn and needs best. *END* %style data% SIZE AND STYLE DATA All data fields on this screen are mandatory. Values are entered from pop-up menus. The size and sex are used to look up standard measurements in the size table, and to calculate the finished measurements of your sweater. The sex field is important; the measurements for a child's 32 are different from a woman's 32, which are in turn different from a man's 32. CHILDREN's sizes relate to approximate ages as follows: Size (in): 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 Size (cm): 51 56 61 66 71 76 81 Age: 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 As we are all well aware, children vary greatly in their growth. The chest size, body and arm lengths should be used primarily in selecting a size, not the age. .cp SIZE AND STYLE DATA EASE STYLE determines the amount of ease in the garment. It varies from very tight, with no ease, to oversized, which has 5-6 inches of ease around the chest. Ease is applied to the chest, back width, armhole and upper arm measurements. The CARDIGAN style is for a buttoned front on overlapping vertical ribbing, which is 1", or the same width as the neckline ribbing for a single band collar. The GARMENT LENGTH code is used to calculate the finished body length measurement. It is also used to determine where the ribbing will fit. Use "Waist" to have the ribbing snug around the waist, "Hip" or "Coat" to have it fit around the hips, "Regular" to have it fit between the waist and hips (exactly where depends on the finished body length measurement). For coat (tunic) length, you may want to decrease the ribbing width if you want the ribbing to fit more snugly below the hips. .cp SIZE AND STYLE DATA SHOULDER STYLE options are Drop, Set-in, and Raglan. DROP (or T-Square) has no armhole or shoulder shaping, and the sleeve is blunt at the top. SET-IN shoulder has shaping at the armhole and along the shoulder, and the sleeve has a fitted cap. RAGLAN shoulder has continuous shaping along the armhole seam and the sleeve cap. .cp SIZE AND STYLE DATA - NECKLINES NECKLINE styles include round, scoop, square, boat and V. Default neckline measurements (front and back neck width, front neck depth) are set differently for each neckline style. These can be changed to suit your individual preference. The ROUND NECK (or crew) is for a standard round fairly shallow neckline. A SCOOP NECK is wider and deeper, with more gradual shaping at the front bottom. A SQUARE NECK is the same width at front and back. It is as deep as a scoop neck, but not as wide. A V NECKLINE is by default set at armhole depth, with the front bottom width depending on the collar style (or zero for a cardigan). .cp SIZE AND STYLE DATA - BOAT NECKLINES BOAT NECKLINES are worked differently than the others. Both the back and front of the garment are worked the same way, with no neckline shaping. The neckline is a continuation of the body, simply changing from stocking stitch to ribbing stitch. The default boat ribbing length is the same as the body welt ribbing. For a BUTTED BOAT NECK the front and back are sewn together along the shoulder seams, leaving an opening for the head. An OVERLAPPED BOAT NECK is joined only at the ends, at the top of the armhole seams. This gives a nice neckline for set-in sleeves, but may gap too much for drop shoulders or cap sleeves. .cp SIZE AND STYLE DATA - COLLARS The selections for COLLAR STYLE are: single band, double band, rolled edge, cowl, turtleneck and shawl collar. Both the SINGLE BAND and DOUBLE BAND are worked in ribbing. The instructions call for K1P1 by hand, or a 2x1 rib by machine. The ROLLED EDGE collar is worked in reverse stocking stitch. It takes advantage of the natural tendency of stocking stitch to curl. The collar is knit in one piece on the garment, with a seam on the left side. The TURTLENECK COLLAR (or Polo) is a tight fitting high collar, worked in ribbing from a standard round neckline. Adjust the length for your personal preference. .cp SIZE AND STYLE DATA - COLLARS The COWL COLLAR is for a fairly loose collar knitted in stocking stitch, that will roll naturally. Knitting to a tighter gauge (smaller needles/keyplate/dial gauge) will give a collar with a closer fit. Likewise, a looser gauge will give a looser fit. The cowl collar is knit in one piece on the sweater, with a seam on the left side. When finished, and rolled down, the right (knit) side will be showing. The SHAWL COLLAR is a wide tapered overlapped band, worked in moss stitch from a V or square neckline. By hand it is best worked on a circular needle, on a machine a center back seam is unavoidable. As noted, each collar has a default stitch recommended in the instructions. Of course, any of them can be worked in any stitch that you choose. *END* %style sweaters% SWEATERS SIZE AND STYLE DATA - SLEEVES The SLEEVE LENGTH style is used to calculate the finished sleeve length, and to determine where the sleeve ribbing will fit. A full length sleeve will come down to the hand, and the ribbing will fit around the wrist. A 3/4 length sleeve will end midway between the wrist and elbow, and the ribbing should fit around the forearm at that point. *END* %style tops% TOPS AND VESTS - SIZE AND STYLE DATA - SLEEVES The SLEEVE LENGTH style is used to calculate the finished sleeve length, and to determine where the sleeve ribbing will fit. A SHORT SLEEVE should be above the elbow, and the ribbing fit at some point around the upper arm. A CAP SLEEVE is knitted as a continuation of the back and front; the ribbing should be fairly loose. An INSET SLEEVE is for a sleeveless top or vest. It uses the same armhole shaping as for a set-in sleeve, inset the width of the ribbing. The ribbing should fit comfortably around the armhole. *END* %meas data% FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA Not all of the measurement fields will be displayed for every style. Back width is used only for set-in sleeves. Sleeve top (upper arm) measurement is not needed for a drop shoulder style. The data shown on this screen is that which the program calculated using the size and style data that you entered in the previous screens, and the size table. The size table contains standard or "average" measurements for given sizes. How close to average you are will determine how many of these fields you will want to change. Since it is hard to check all these numbers on the screen, it is a good idea to print the pattern using this "first-pass" data, check the data from the printed pattern, then return to the program to change those fields that need changing, and finally print the revised pattern to knit from. .cp FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA There is the option on this screen to return to the "Size and Style Data" screen. This allows you to try several different sizes or styles, to see what the finished measurements look like, without having to save, or re-enter all the other data. Not every measurement needs to be checked. Check those that are crucial to the fit of the garment, and the way you want it to look. All data shown on this screen (except size) are finished measurements of the garment. They are calculated with ease included, as determined by the EASE STYLE. LENGTHS are also calculated with a certain amount of ease, for comfort and style. Remember this ease when measuring your body and sleeve lengths. .cp FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA The finished measurements for body and sleeve length include the ribbing length shown below them. BODY LENGTH is measured from the back of the neck (below the neck ribbing) to the bottom of the ribbing. SLEEVE LENGTH is measured from the armhole seam to the bottom of the ribbing. RIBBING WIDTHs are the finished measurements around the body and arm, so that when the ribbing is slightly stretched it will fit comfortably at the length specified. NECK measurements do not include the ribbing. Neck depth is measured from the centre bottom front of the neck to the top. The front neck width for a cardigan is both sides combined. COLLAR LENGTH is the full measurement of the collar before rolling or doubling. For a shawl collar, it is the measurement at the center back. *END* %meas sweaters% SWEATERS - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA SLEEVE BOTTOM is the finished measurement around the sleeve at the wrist (for full length) or forearm (for 3/4 length). To allow for blousing, it is a separate measurement from the sleeve ribbing width, which is measured at the same length. *END* %meas tops% TOPS AND VESTS - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA SLEEVE BOTTOM is the finished measurement around the sleeve at the upper arm (for short sleeves). To allow for blousing, it is a separate measurement from the sleeve ribbing width, which is measured at the same length. The default for CAP SLEEVES is for a rectangular body with the cap sleeve ribbing added at the armhole. If you want a longer cap sleeve (knit as an extension to the back and front), increase the sleeve length. The ribbing should be fairly loose, unless the cap is quite long. The default for INSET SLEEVES is for a sleeveless garment with a 1" ribbing length. The finished width of the garment, including the ribbings, is the back width measurement. *END* %problems% PROBLEMS - HOW TO QUIT The most common way to quit is to select the Quit option from the main menu. This closes the files and exits neatly from the program. If you wish to exit while in the data entry process, you can press [Esc], then Quit from the Main Menu. However, with [Esc], your current data will NOT be saved. If you have a problem with the program, and even the [Esc] key does not work, try [Ctrl] [Break] held down together. This is not such a tidy way of exiting, the data you were working on will be lost, and files will not be closed properly. If even this does not work, you will have to reset your computer, and start your session all over. Remove any diskettes you may have in your floppy drives. To reset, press the RESET button if you have one, press the [Ctrl] [Alt] and [Del] keys all together, or turn the machine off, then on again. .cp PROBLEMS If you have a problem, first note (on paper), the exact nature of the problem. If it's a message on the screen, then do a [Print Screen]. Next read the documentation thoroughly. If you are still confused, then get help. For the install, DOS commands, file recovery, or start-up, you need someone who knows a bit of DOS and how computers work. If it is something that has always worked fine before, try resetting your system, and starting again. If it is a problem with the way the program works, the results it gives you, or the data it uses, describe it on the Comment / Problem Form (Appendix B of the User Manual) and mail or phone it to us. .cp PROBLEMS - ERROR MESSAGES There are several types of messages that may appear on your screen. Usually the beep will sound and the message will appear at the bottom left of the screen. Most of the messages require acknowledgement (press any key), and a change in the input data. Fatal errors will exit from the program, and will require a change to the system environment before the program can be re-run. Most messages are self-explanatory, but many are listed in the User Manual, section 8. See section 8.4 on how to recover from fatal error messages. *END* %history% KNITWARE DESIGN HISTORY The following is a brief synopsis of KNITWARE Design programs history, and features included in each release. Version 1.10 January 1992 Sweaters: Initial release. Version 1.20 December 1992 Sweaters: Update, including: - New necklines: scoop, square, and boat. - New collars: doubled band, rolled edge, turtleneck, and shawl. - Expanded pattern data file format. - Fix some problems. - Many minor changes, wording, defaults, etc. Tops and Vests: Initial release. - Includes all features of Sweaters, with different sleeve lengths and shaping. *END* %mcs% WHO WE ARE My name is Janet Tombu. I live in sunny west-coast Victoria, British Columbia. I have a university degree in Mathematics, and worked for many years in the data processing and computer systems design industry. In 1986, my husband Jerry and I set up our company, Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd. Under its umbrella, we have continued our computer consulting activities. My English grandmother taught me to knit. Since that time I have made numerous sweaters, scarves and hats. I even tried gloves one time, never again! In February 1989 I bought my first knitting machine, a BOND. This put a whole different perspective on knitting!! .cp WHO WE ARE Because I could now make more sweaters more quickly, I more frequently ran into the problems and frustrations of converting patterns to different sizes and gauges, of changing necklines, or body lengths. I started to dabble on the computer, making pattern changes, adding bits and pieces, printing a design in a variety of sizes. With the encouragement of friends (and dismay of husband) I have, since the summer of 1990, directed all my computer systems expertise to the development of the KNITWARE Design programs. Progress is slow, because my two small daughters still come first. But things do eventually get done. The program is continually being modified. If you have any ideas, suggestions, comments, or even criticism, please write to me at the address below. .cp WHO WE ARE Janet Tombu Morningdew Consulting Services, Ltd. 7604 Morningdew Road R.R. #5, Victoria B.C. Canada V8X 4M6 Telephone: (604) 652-4097 *END*